Class will be at the Studio tonight, but I'd bring a coat, just in case we get crazy. Is anyone allergic to dogs?
This picture has some interesting things about the camera settings in it. First of all, I've been telling you that your sharpest pictures come about when you use your lens' sharpest aperture (two full stops smaller than the widest aperture). This is most important on stuff that's far away; I often shoot portraits at the widest aperture, but I stop down (close the aperture) when I want to shoot something farther away.
This was shot with a 300mm prime lens (that means it doesn't zoom--it's always at 300mm) wit ha maximum (widest) aperture of f/4.0. That's pretty big for a 300mm lens! But since I was shooting at a pretty good distance, and I wanted a sharp picture, I dialed it down two full stops. Remember these numbers, they are the regular stop intervals: f/1, f/1.4, f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22. Even though my camera is capable of increments of one third of a stop, two full stops is required--that's six ticks of my adjustment wheel in 1/3 stop increments. So, from f/4.0, two full stops would be....
Next, The sky is usually a very bright thing in pictures, even if it was kind of dark in life because the camera wants to make dark things bright, so we should use the exposure compensation button (+/-) to under expose (-) the scene to the make the sky nice and rich. However, we should over expose (+) the scene to brighten the white spires because the camera wants to make bright things dark. However, since this scens is about half and half dark and bright, the camera's average was just right! I didn't have to use compensation at all. The best thing for this picture was using the camera's built in Landscape mode, which adds contrast and saturation to colors.
Any questions? I hope so. See you in Class.
No comments:
Post a Comment